Day Two in Dublin

“The world is full of magic things, patiently waiting for our senses to grow sharper.”
W.B. Yeats

My second day in Dublin made me fall even more in love with the city. It’s so fun and lively and there’s so much to see. Admittedly I was spoiled with fantastic weather, but still.

That morning I woke early (first out of my six person room early) and headed down to breakfast before catching the redline tram over to Kilmainham Gaol. I’d seen it listed on good things to do in Dublin, so I of course thought I’d check it out.

I had read online it was best to have a ticket booked ahead of time. Sure enough when I went on to check, several times for the day had already filled up. So I went ahead and booked a 10 o’clock ticket.

I arrived with plenty of time to spare, so had a bit of free time to look around at the museum area upfront. And then before too long the tour began.

It was pretty good overall. Our guide led us through the jail, telling us more about the history and what had happened at particular places. It was an interesting place to see, especially noting the changes between the older and the newer parts of the jail. I was in disbelief when I heard that during the famine period they had ten times their capacity, often putting 5 to a tiny cell. So insane.

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After an hour long tour we were allowed to look through the museum on our own time. It’s fairly small, but still a nice collection. I spent about a half an hour just browsing, not reading all the signs. But it does provide some additional insight into the jail.

Once I was finished at the jail I hopped on the rail to get back towards the Guinness Storehouse, my next stop.

Again, I’d seen it listed as a fun attraction, so I figured I’d try.

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It’s quite pricey. And as someone who isn’t a big beer fan, it maybe wasn’t the best choice. However, I did still have fun. The facility is very nicely laid out. They make it very fun and interactive and you learn a lot. It’s just a pity that it’s so expensive and crowded, and of course that it basically just acts as one big advertisement for the beer. It reminds me of the Coca Cola museum in Atlanta, except that the coke museum at least has a fantastic tasting room at the end where you can try all kinds of different sodas.

At the end of the Guinness tour you just get a glass of the beer.

Not bad all in all, but definitely not to my taste in beer. And others agreed as I saw full glasses left scattered throughout the bar.

Well, up to you on whether or not you want to do it. It’s not my recommendation overall, but for Guinness or beer lovers this might be just the thing you need.

After that I was torn between going back to my hostel and resting for a bit and continuing on my way.

I’d already decided that my next stop needed to be the archaeology museum.

I ended up stopping at the natural history museum on my way. The place was free, so I figured why not since I had some spare time and since I was already there.

It’s two levels, but otherwise quite small. I’ve seen better natural history museums, but it still had a nice collection of animals and some fun things to see. And again, being donation only, it’s really not a bad pop in if you’re in the area.

I walked over to St. Stephen’s Green, a beautiful open park. I didn’t spend much time there, but on a beautiful sunny day it was certainly a sight to behold.

After that I headed to the right side of the block to enter the archaeology museum.

It’s definitely one of my top recommendations for Dublin. Lots of interesting artifacts, and my personal favorite, the bog bodies. Essentially they are mummified bodies that were preserved in the bogs of Ireland and are fascinating to behold! I’d never seen anything quite like them. I’m posting the least gruesome photo I have so you can see.

I was pretty much exhausted at that point, but I was close to the gallery so I figured I’d pop in since it was free.

Well, rather it advertises it is free.

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Apparently when I was there they were having a special exhibition, meaning that most of the museum was not free as a result. Only two rooms were open to the public, one of which had children’s drawings, and the other which had a few sculptures. Not too impressive. So be warned you might need to pay to go in. Check if it’s an exhibition you want to see. I wasn’t all that interested in going if I had to pay.

I headed back towards my hostel. I’d thought about visiting the Dublin Writer’s Museum, but I was simply too tired after a full day to possibly go. So I went to the store and bought some snacks for the next few day’s lunches. I have a strict one paid meal per day policy. So I usually just get some snacks for breakfast or lunch (if my hostel doesn’t provide breakfast). So I stocked up for the coming days.

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A swing through Trinity in the sun!

I took a quick break at my hostel before heading out to find dinner again.

Another recommendation from my tour guide the day before had been The Winding Stair, a restaurant along the river not far from the half-penny bridge.

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The prices weren’t cheap, but for what was included it was a good deal. Besides, one meal policy leaves a little room for splurging in the evening. So I had the three course meal to spoil myself.

I started with a watercress and potato soup, then lamb with mint and yogurt sauce, potatoes and broccoli, and finally a slice of dark chocolate cherry brownie with vanilla ice cream.

It was exceptionally delicious.

After the meal I headed back to my hostel. I was lucky enough to arrive back in time to the hostel in order to use the steam room. It’s only open for three hours in the evening, and only two of those are open to girls (one girls, one mixed group).

Anyhow, changed into my suit and hopped in the sauna. It was ridiculously warm so I only lasted about 10-15 minutes, but it felt really good and refreshing. So here’s my plug for Isaac’s Hostel with their awesome steam room. Very cool feature!

Then on for a good night’s sleep. I needed to be well rested and prepared for my adventure the coming day. After all, I was about to leave the beautiful country of Ireland and venture off towards a new place… The Isle of Man.

First Day in Dublin

“When I die Dublin will be written in my heart” -James Joyce

I should preface this post by saying I was an English major in university. That’s probably pretty obvious for the upcoming posts about my adventures, but you should know this fact going in. I’m quite biased about what sights you should see visiting the British Isles due to my nerdy classic literature loving…and hence why I’ll try to have quotes from authors of each city/area I visited as the heading to my posts. Regardless, here are my thoughts on Dublin.

So as someone who usually rushes from place to place while traveling, I decided that I was going to try to be better and give myself two full days in Dublin, plus a night when I arrived. So three nights, two days. I hoped it would be enough.

It’s never enough.

Admittedly I was spoiled early in life when my father took me to live in France for a semester. I forget that I cannot possibly hope to see everything in a few day’s time. But I do my best.

I’d used Inspirock to create a day to day plan. So for my first day the plan was to do a 3 hour walking tour, go to Dublin Castle, go to the Chester Beatty Library, go to Trinity College, and finish off with a walk in Merrion Square.

Not quite how things went exactly. Because travel can’t fit a perfect little formulaic plan. Things happen. It’s the reason I normally avoid booking too many things, because otherwise a schedule can fall apart under stress very quickly.

The walking tour started at 10 AM after a breakfast at the hostel. It was with Sandeman’s New Europe, my favorite company. I have grown to love them because they really do put in a lot of time and effort into making a good walking tour due to the fact that they run on a tips only basis. I’ve yet to have a Sandeman’s tour I don’t like, and I’ve done their tours in Berlin, Amsterdam, Hamburg, and now Dublin.

 

Our guide led us around the city and told us more about the history and the culture and the sights. We started with the castle and then worked our way down to the old national library.

However, when we finished I’d decided I didn’t want to go to the castle after all. It’s the good thing about such tours, they sometimes give you a better scope of the city and what you might want to, or not want to do.

The castle is mostly reconstruction, so I decided it wasn’t really top priority to me. Besides, we’d moved further away from it so it wasn’t a great place to start. So I thought I’d head to the archeology museum instead, only to see it was closed on Mondays. Yay.

I peeked in the National Library, which had a free exhibition on William Butler Yeats. Overall quite fun. It was interesting to see original copies of poems I’d had to read for class.

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The library itself required you to check bags and such and the librarians all seemed quite grumpy and mean so I decided to skip it. So it was off to Trinity College instead.

I didn’t feel like I needed a full tour of the place. As much as I love Wilde and Swift and other people who attended this university ages before, I felt that another tour might be excessive. So I settled for going to see the library and the famous Book of Kells, an ancient copy of the gospels with beautiful illumination.

It was a bit of a wait to get in, but the weather wasn’t too bad, so I didn’t mind. It might have been nice to have booked a ticket, but I think it took me less than 20 minutes to get in, so really not too bad in the long run.

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The line for Book of Kells

The books themselves were beautiful. They sadly don’t allow pictures (which makes sense), so I cannot show you them. But look them up and see for yourself. They’re quite lovely and impressive.

However, the most impressive thing is the Long Room, or the actual library. It is a beautiful collection you’ve probably seen used in photos of gorgeous libraries… or maybe in its resemblance in Star Wars Attack of the Clones (the actual library was supposed to be used in the films but they weren’t allowed…so I guess they took photos and digitally recreated it… Trinity sued and won…of course).

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Regardless photos in the long room were allowed, thank heavens. Because it is absolutely stunning. If you love books and libraries then you need to see this. It’s a must.

Well to continue on in my nerdiness I headed over to the Chester Beatty Library. A free collection of beautiful works originally from a private collection. They had a nice variety, all quite beautiful and rare. I was quite in awe looking at all of them, but unfortunately, again, photos weren’t allowed, except on the roof where you had a nice view!

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Regardless, this is a must, especially since it is free. If you’re in Dublin for a few days and love books, check it out!

I headed to Christ Church Cathedral next. It’s not as big as Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, but it’s the older of the two, so I thought it might be fun to see.

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They charge to get in, but it’s not exorbitant, and you get to see the crypt too which is quite large.

They also had things up for lent, like a reflective prayer walk that I enjoyed.

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But my favorite thing to see was the mummified cat and rat. Both had gotten stuck in an organ pipe and died in it. As the organ wasn’t used for a while during some rougher periods in the church, no one noticed. So yes, they basically mummified until they were pulled out the next time people wanted to use the organ.

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It’s a fascinating story and the bodies were morbid but interesting.

I walked over to Saint Patrick’s Cathedral as well and took photos of the outside. Honestly, I hate when cathedrals charge, as I generally don’t spend a lot of time in them and have seen a lot of others that might have been more impressive, and therefore it isn’t worth it if I have to pay. But I understand that sometimes it’s needed for general upkeep and the like. Hey, support conservation of historical places, right?

After that I walked back over to my hostel for a break and a phone recharge.

And then I set out for dinner.

My tour guide recommended a few places, but one of them also had good trip advisor reviews and was considered authentic Irish cuisine. So I figured it might be fun to try.

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I showed up fairly early, and as a person by myself it was easy to get a table. But I was glad I arrived when I did, as not twenty minutes later they were asking people if they had reservations and had to turn some people away. So good luck on my part. Definitely an advantage of solo travel alongside just having good planning in arriving early (or you can do late too…that often works…though not in Spain…then it’s just insanely late).

I started with vegetable soup to treat myself, and then had a boxty, a traditional Irish potato pancake with slices of beef cooked in whiskey and a creamy mushroom sauce.

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Oh my word the dish was delicious. The sauce was so amazing, and the beef was cooked to perfection. The pancake was fine with the rest, but I didn’t know if it was all that special by itself.

Paired those off with the restaurants own craft beer and then had baileys cheesecake for dessert to be extra indulgent. And that was quite amazing too.

If you’re looking for a good Irish place definitely try Boxty House. It’s super delicious, not badly priced, and also in a great location right near Temple Bar.

Alongside all that I also decided I wanted to walk over to Merrion Square and get a picture with Oscar Wilde. He’s one of my favorite writers and a very brilliant man, and it seemed like a fun idea.

I had to run to get there before the park closed, but I made it and I got my picture. Also stopped by his house, which is sadly no longer open to the public. But got a commemorative photo of my own taking.

Then back to the hostel. Sadly arrived too late to use the steam room (has only a 3 hour window which is unfortunate) but regardless I had a fantastic first day in Dublin.

Exploring the Great British Isles- The Adventure Begins!

“Only those who risk going too far can possibly find out how far they can go.” — T.S Eliot

So let me thus start by addressing the upcoming account that is coming. It’s fourteen days in Ireland, Isle of Man, Scotland, and England. As with all my adventure posts, the first  one might be a bit dull as it’s mostly just about getting to the place to begin with, but I assure you there is more excitement to come in the future posts.

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So I began my journey by heading to Ireland. And by heading to Ireland I mean heading to Belgium.

Confused yet?

Well, the Lille airport has absolutely horrible prices for flights. So my options are to head down to Paris or to Brussels. Usually I find the cheapest prices in Brussels, which is why it’s not a bad idea to just book a shuttle over to Charleroi airport instead of paying an arm and a leg to fly out of my own country.

So voila, my flight dilemma. Which was why I booked a shuttle over to Brussels and then was going to fly to Ireland.

Or rather thought I did.

Turns out I wasn’t thinking when I booked a shuttle for 3. I forgot that generally in Europe they use military time… aka 3 was actually 3 AM…

I thankfully was there early enough that I realized my mistake and was able to just pay for a ticket for the shuttle leaving at that time. But I was still pretty irritated with myself. And yes had to pay a more expensive ticket on top of the one I’d purchased before.

Regardless I arrived at the airport with plenty of time to spare. Got through security with my one backpack and purse without having to pay any luggage fees. I’m a pretty decent packer that way. Next trip I have to try to do just a backpack… I’m admittedly quite nervous. I might have to pay for an extra bag.

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I had coffee and waited in the airport (again this is why it’s the boring post). Checked in through the border check with my passport and went to wait for my flight.

Found my seat and waited two hours on the flight before finally arriving in Ireland.

 

Once in Ireland I had to wait about 20-30 minutes to get through customs. Possibly a bit shorter, but it felt super long. The worst is watching all the EU citizens just breeze through while you’re stuck in line. Although as an American I shouldn’t complain considering what our own customs are like.

Anyhow, once out I had to search out the bus. Obviously there might be cheaper ways to do it, but I opted to take Airlink 747 into the city center, which made it fast and easy to get to my hostel.

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I had decided to stay at Isaac’s Hostel. They were centrally located, had good reviews, and even a light breakfast and I’m all for that. The downsides of Isaacs are that it’s located right next to a train line that makes it quite noisy for sleeping, and it also doesn’t have wifi in the rooms, or lockers (though you can rent ones in the basement) which is most unfortunate. But overall it had a really nice atmosphere, free breakfast, friendly staff, good location, and even a free steam room, so honestly I’m not complaining too much.

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The basement lockers!

I had arrived after nine, so I was in kind of a rush to get something to eat before I went to bed. In my opinion sometimes food while traveling doesn’t need to be local cuisine. Sometimes it just needs to be something fast, convenient, cheap, easy, etc. And this was one of those times. So yes I went and grabbed pizza from a place I’d seen on my way to the hostel and then took my slices back to eat there. It was cheap and convenient, so I wasn’t going to complain.

After that I went back to shower and settle into my hostel. I was excited to get a good night’s sleep and be ready to set out the next day.